Installing AsianCycle flush-mounts

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Flushmount turn signals are a relatively simple addition to your EX250. This installation guide will help answer any questions you may still have once you open the package. Please read the main flushmounts article for more information on this modification.


  • Wire Strippers/Cutter
  • Ruler (optional)
  • Pen/marker (optional)
  • Soldering Iron
  • Knife/scissors to cut shrink wrap tubing (optional)
  • Heat Gun/Lighter/Heat Source to shrink the shrink wrap tubing (optional)
  • Scribe/marker to mark the section of the fairing to be removed
  • Dremel or other moto-tool with cut-off wheel and sanding drum, OR anything you are comfortable cutting your fairings with. Hacksaw blades with duct tape handles have been noted as working well for many people. Others just drill multiple holes along the cut line using an electric drill.
  • File/sandpaper to smooth the cut on the fairing (optional)
  • A #2 Phillips screwdriver to fasten the flushmounts onto the fairing


  • Solder
  • Shrink wrap tubing (optional)
  • Electrical tape

Preparation of flushmount signals

Here is the object of this exercise: flushmount front turn signals from AsianCycle. Note the total lack of any connectors on the leads, which is just as well, since there is practically no way to match the stock Kawasaki connectors.

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Here are bullet connectors that are still on some donor signals. A lot of people bust up regular signals and just toss them, but why not recycle/reuse? These came with a parts bike. There's a good chance that you could post that you're looking for busted ones and get them cheap from someone here. You can also purchase many varieties of connectors from your local auto store and use new connectors on both ends. Just remember that you need to be able to disconnect the connectors to remove the fairing.

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Cut the leads near the sockets. Note the sheathing tubes; save those and reuse them as well. Don't bother trying to detach the actual bullet mount from a lead; the crimp tabs will just break off.

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Make the new leads approximately the same length as the originals. Leave the new flushmount leads alone, save for stripping about 3/4" of insulation off their ends. The leads from the OEM signals (below the ruler) have been cut and the insulation stripped so that when the wires are spliced, they will be close to the original length of the OEM leads.

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Use the Western Union wire splicing technique.

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Follow that by soldering the splice. You can also use crimp connectors.

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At this time, cut sections of shrink wrap tubing about 1/2" longer than the splice sections.

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Use a heat gun to shrink the shrink wrap. It is also possible to use a lighter, carefully placed to not allow the flame to contact the shrink wrap. Some people carefully use the heat from their soldering iron to do the same job. Whatever will shrink the tubing and seal the splice is fine.

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Slip the OEM sheathing tubes over the new leads. Sealing the ends of the sheathing tube with some electrical tape should protect the leads from possible chafing, as well as provide more corrosion resistance.

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Wiring: The black wire gets connected to the yellow/black wire (ground), and the red wire gets connected to the green wire (hot). Yellow and black wire is ground throughout the bike.

Preparation of the fairing

With these flushmounts, the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases that go between the fairing and the flushmount provided with the signals. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.


Holding the base in place, use a scribe/pencil/Sharpie to mark the outline of the section that needs to be removed.

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Here is a picture that shows the scribed lines. If you're using a hacksaw blade or something else that won't let you cut curved holes, the easiest way to do this is to just follow the square pattern on the base plate. One of the goals of this particular job was to take out as little material as possible. This is personal preference and isn't strictly necessary.

If you have the tools and wish to avoid removing extra material from your fairing, note that you don't HAVE to cut all the way back to the hole at the back of the cut. You can stop just short of it by scribing an arc with a quarter or a washer, making a circular cut that will stop just short of the OEM hole that's in your fairing. Note that using this method may require some additional cutting, sanding, or filing.

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Here are external pictures of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used on the left to make the cutout area more visible.

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Internal picture of the same. Notice that a small part of the inside of the circular section was taken out to allow for a proper fit. The flushmounts can be installed and removed without feeling that you're putting a strain on anything, but the fit is still nice and snug.

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Place the rubber baseplate and the flushmount unit onto the main fairing. Use the provided fasteners to attach the flushmount. Repeat for the other side. This can be done with the fairing on the body, but it is easier to do with the fairing removed. Remount the fairing on the motorcycle. Finally, attach the signal leads the same as stock.

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