Oil Change Procedure
Need visual aids? Please see our photographic oil change article. Read both articles, please. There are some things that are only in one.
What is the oil change procedure?
Warm up the engine BY RIDING IT. Turn off the engine, and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on the centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts.
Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Do not use your torque wrench to loosen the drain bolt; torque wrenches are only for checking torque as you tighten a bolt.
Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065-097. Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02.
Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
Wipe a small amount of new oil onto the gaskets on the inside of the filter which contact the bolt and onto the big o-ring, and then place the new filter (see oil filter page for options) on the retainer and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on its centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower.)
Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).
Here is a diagram of the filter assembly.
A common mistake when putting the oil filter assembly back together is to forget to replace the small washer (part #92022 in the diagram). Many a rider has finished draining his/her oil pan only to find a tiny surprise at the bottom, or to find it stuck to the bottom of the old filter. Should this happen to you, there's no need to worry; one of our administrators admitted to riding 20,000 miles without his. However, it's really better to have it in there. Reinstall it at your next oil change. One good way to remember is to staple it to your manual at the oil change page.
Note on the O-rings: Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in diagram above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.
Often forgotten: Checking the oil screen
This is something that should be done at least by the second or third oil change on a new bike, and on the first on a used one. For more information, look here.