Oil Change Procedure: Difference between revisions

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====What is the oil change procedure?====

Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065. (Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up.) Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts.

Place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window. Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower ~~than when both wheels are on the ground~~.)

Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065-097. Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02.

Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

Place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on its centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower.)

Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).

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As far as actual cleaning of the screen goes, you can pretty much just wipe the screen clean with a rag. If you do need to spray it, WD-40 works fine. There are no gaskets to worry about. Just remove, clean, and replace.

'''Pay careful attention to torque.''' Since these bolts aren't mentioned in the [[Torque Values|torque values guide]], you have to use the generic value for bolts with a 6mm thread, which is 60 in-lbs. Bolts have been known to shear off when using the values for the oil drain bolt (170 in-lbs), or the generic value for 8mm threads (144 in-lbs). The bolt head is 8mm, but the threads are 6mm.

'''Pay careful attention to torque.''' Since these bolts aren't mentioned in the [[Torque Values|torque values guide]], you have to use the generic value for bolts with a 6mm thread, which is 60 in-lbs. Bolts have been known to shear off when using the values for the oil drain bolt (170 in-lbs), or the generic value for 8mm threads (144 in-lbs). The bolt head is 8mm, but the threads are 6mm. So, 60 in-lbs it is.

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 ====What is the oil change procedure?====
-Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065. (Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up.) Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
+Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts.
-Place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window. Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower than when both wheels are on the ground.)
+Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065-097. Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up. Two alternatives are Hyundai part #21513-23001 or Nissan #11026-01M02.
+Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.
+Place the new filter (see [[Oil Filters|oil filter page]] for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window (aka "sight glass"). Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on its centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. (The bike is tilted forward and isn't level when on the centerstand, so the level appears lower.)
 Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).
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 As far as actual cleaning of the screen goes, you can pretty much just wipe the screen clean with a rag. If you do need to spray it, WD-40 works fine. There are no gaskets to worry about. Just remove, clean, and replace.
-'''Pay careful attention to torque.''' Since these bolts aren't mentioned in the [[Torque Values|torque values guide]], you have to use the generic value for bolts with a 6mm thread, which is 60 in-lbs. Bolts have been known to shear off when using the values for the oil drain bolt (170 in-lbs), or the generic value for 8mm threads (144 in-lbs). The bolt head is 8mm, but the threads are 6mm.
+'''Pay careful attention to torque.''' Since these bolts aren't mentioned in the [[Torque Values|torque values guide]], you have to use the generic value for bolts with a 6mm thread, which is 60 in-lbs. Bolts have been known to shear off when using the values for the oil drain bolt (170 in-lbs), or the generic value for 8mm threads (144 in-lbs). The bolt head is 8mm, but the threads are 6mm. So, 60 in-lbs it is.