I want to get some new pegs - Revision history

Bokonon at 17:30, 18 October 2011

2011-10-18T17:30:45Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:30, 18 October 2011
Line 3:		Line 3:
	Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, Emgo and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.		Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, Emgo and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.

	We definitely '''do not recommend''' slash cut pegs.		We definitely '''do not recommend''' slash cut pegs. They're unsafe.

	Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum. They are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately) and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.		Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum. They are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately) and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.

Bokonon at 17:30, 18 October 2011

2011-10-18T17:30:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:30, 18 October 2011
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	[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]		[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
	Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, Emgo and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.		Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, Emgo and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.

			We definitely '''do not recommend''' slash cut pegs.

	Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum. They are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately) and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.		Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum. They are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately) and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.

Bokonon at 03:54, 29 May 2010

2010-05-29T03:54:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:54, 28 May 2010
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	Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.		Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.

			If you want to go whole hog, you can get [[Woodcraft rearsets shifter adjustability fix\|Woodcraft rearsets]], which will move the pegs up and back, for that racer look and feel (for better or worse).

Bokonon at 06:02, 26 April 2009

2009-04-26T06:02:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:02, 26 April 2009
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	[[Category: Controls & Cables]]		[[Category: Controls & Cables]]
	[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]		[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
	Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. There are generally two types: replacements that focus on price point (similar to OEM pegs, often identical in appearance) and replacements that focus on performance. BikeMaster is one of the biggest replacement OEM peg dealers, followed closely by Kuryakyn. Both offer reasonable quality at much cheaper than OEM costs. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, Emgo and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.		Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, Emgo and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.

	Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum~~, and offer increased grip over 99% of stock footpegs~~. ~~In addition, they~~ are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately), and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.		Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum. They are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately) and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.

	[[Image:pegsround.jpg\|180px]]		[[Image:pegsround.jpg\|180px]]
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	[[Image:slash cut pegs.jpg\|180px]]		[[Image:slash cut pegs.jpg\|180px]]

	Something else to think about: The rubber on OEM-style pegs does a lot to keep vibration from reaching your feet. The fun-looking aluminum ones may not be as comfortable as the stockers. ~~OTOH~~, ~~if you don't like~~ the, ~~ummm... rubbery feel of~~ the ~~stock pegs~~, ~~it doesn~~'~~t cost a lot~~ to ~~try aftermarket ones~~ out.		Something else to think about: The rubber on OEM-style pegs does a lot to keep vibration from reaching your feet. The fun-looking aluminum ones may not be as comfortable as the stockers. Also, the stock pegs, with the feelers in place, will give you a warning when you're about to run out of lean.

	Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.		Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.

Bokonon: I want to get some new pegs. moved to I want to get some new pegs

2008-05-17T18:40:46Z

I want to get some new pegs. moved to I want to get some new pegs

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:40, 17 May 2008
(No difference)

Bokonon at 10:13, 21 March 2008

2008-03-21T10:13:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:13, 21 March 2008
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	[[Image:slash cut pegs.jpg\|180px]]		[[Image:slash cut pegs.jpg\|180px]]

	Something else to think about: The rubber on OEM-style pegs does a lot to keep vibration from reaching your feet. The fun-looking aluminum ones may not be as comfortable as the stockers.		Something else to think about: The rubber on OEM-style pegs does a lot to keep vibration from reaching your feet. The fun-looking aluminum ones may not be as comfortable as the stockers. OTOH, if you don't like the, ummm... rubbery feel of the stock pegs, it doesn't cost a lot to try aftermarket ones out.

	Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.		Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.

Bokonon at 09:11, 15 July 2007

2007-07-15T09:11:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:11, 15 July 2007
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category: Controls & Cables]]		[[Category: Controls & Cables]]
	[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]		[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
	Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. There are generally two types: replacements that focus on price point (similar to OEM pegs, often identical in appearance) and replacements that focus on performance. BikeMaster is one of the biggest replacement OEM peg dealers, followed closely by Kuryakyn. Both offer reasonable quality at much cheaper than OEM costs. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.		Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. There are generally two types: replacements that focus on price point (similar to OEM pegs, often identical in appearance) and replacements that focus on performance. BikeMaster is one of the biggest replacement OEM peg dealers, followed closely by Kuryakyn. Both offer reasonable quality at much cheaper than OEM costs. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, Emgo and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.

	Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum, and offer increased grip over 99% of stock footpegs. In addition, they are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately), and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.		Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum, and offer increased grip over 99% of stock footpegs. In addition, they are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately), and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.

Bokonon at 09:31, 1 July 2007

2007-07-01T09:31:44Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:31, 1 July 2007
Line 7:		Line 7:
	[[Image:pegsround.jpg\|180px]]		[[Image:pegsround.jpg\|180px]]

	Slash cut pegs are also machined from billet aluminum, but are designed differently. Slash cut pegs ~~look more like "normal" pegs, having~~ one surface that is obviously designed to contact your boots. In a word, they look more like "normal" pegs. There are differences, though. Slash cut pegs are tapered towards the outer edge of the peg, with the "bottom" of the peg angling up towards the outside of the peg. This is to provide greater lean angle before the pegs start scraping. They are also, like the round pegs, shorter in overall length, to additionally increase ground clearance.		Slash cut pegs are also machined from billet aluminum, but are designed differently. Slash cut pegs have one surface that is obviously designed to contact your boots. In a word, they look more like "normal" pegs than the round ones do. There are differences, though. Slash cut pegs are tapered towards the outer edge of the peg, with the "bottom" of the peg angling up towards the outside of the peg. This is to provide greater lean angle before the pegs start scraping. They are also, like the round pegs, shorter in overall length, to additionally increase ground clearance.

	Instead of a knurled contact surface like round pegs, slash cut pegs have a machined "grid pattern" cut into the top surface of the peg, leaving an aggressive, sharp edge for maximum peg/boot grip. This offers even more grip than the round cut pegs, but that extra grip also means it is a little more difficult to slide your foot on the peg. Actually, it is next to impossible, requiring you to almost completely lift your foot off the peg to move it.		Instead of a knurled contact surface like round pegs, slash cut pegs have a machined "grid pattern" cut into the top surface of the peg, leaving an aggressive, sharp edge for maximum peg/boot grip. This offers even more grip than the round cut pegs, but that extra grip also means it is a little more difficult to slide your foot on the peg. Actually, it is next to impossible, requiring you to almost completely lift your foot off the peg to move it.

Bokonon at 14:30, 23 September 2006

2006-09-23T14:30:48Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:30, 23 September 2006
Line 5:		Line 5:
	Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum, and offer increased grip over 99% of stock footpegs. In addition, they are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately), and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.		Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum, and offer increased grip over 99% of stock footpegs. In addition, they are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately), and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.

	Slash cut pegs are also machined from billet aluminum, but are designed differently. Slash cut pegs look more like "normal" pegs, having one surface that is obviously designed to contact your boots. In a word, they look more like "normal" pegs. There are differences, though. Slash cut pegs are tapered towards the outer edge of the peg, with the "bottom" of the peg angling up towards the outside of the peg. This is to provide greater lean angle before the pegs start scraping. They are also, like the round pegs, shorter in overall length, to additionally increase ground clearance. Instead of a knurled contact surface like round pegs, slash cut pegs have a machined "grid pattern" cut into the top surface of the peg, leaving an aggressive, sharp edge for maximum peg/boot grip. This offers even more grip than the round cut pegs, but that extra grip also means it is a little more difficult to slide your foot on the peg. Actually, it is next to impossible, requiring you to almost completely lift your foot off the peg to move it.		[[Image:pegsround.jpg\|180px]]

			Slash cut pegs are also machined from billet aluminum, but are designed differently. Slash cut pegs look more like "normal" pegs, having one surface that is obviously designed to contact your boots. In a word, they look more like "normal" pegs. There are differences, though. Slash cut pegs are tapered towards the outer edge of the peg, with the "bottom" of the peg angling up towards the outside of the peg. This is to provide greater lean angle before the pegs start scraping. They are also, like the round pegs, shorter in overall length, to additionally increase ground clearance.

			Instead of a knurled contact surface like round pegs, slash cut pegs have a machined "grid pattern" cut into the top surface of the peg, leaving an aggressive, sharp edge for maximum peg/boot grip. This offers even more grip than the round cut pegs, but that extra grip also means it is a little more difficult to slide your foot on the peg. Actually, it is next to impossible, requiring you to almost completely lift your foot off the peg to move it.

			One more thing about slash cut pegs: they aren't as safe as the round ones. The slashed surface is sharp enough to cut you, or a fellow rider, even through leathers or boots. The round ones look just as cool, and are a lot safer.

			[[Image:slash cut pegs.jpg\|180px]]

			Something else to think about: The rubber on OEM-style pegs does a lot to keep vibration from reaching your feet. The fun-looking aluminum ones may not be as comfortable as the stockers.

	Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.		Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.

Bokonon at 15:47, 31 May 2006

2006-05-31T15:47:05Z

New page

[[Category: Controls & Cables]]
[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
Several companies offer replacement pegs for your sport motorcycle. There are generally two types: replacements that focus on price point (similar to OEM pegs, often identical in appearance) and replacements that focus on performance. BikeMaster is one of the biggest replacement OEM peg dealers, followed closely by Kuryakyn. Both offer reasonable quality at much cheaper than OEM costs. Performance pegs will be very different in appearance and materials than OEM pegs. ProTek, Gilles Tooling, Competition Werkes, Superpole, and Vortex all make one of two basic styles of performance enhancing footpegs: round and slash cut. While similar in function (both strive to increase grip on your boot, and increase lean angle by removing unnecessary material), they are still different and will feel different to you, the rider.

Round pegs are machined from a piece of round billet aluminum, and offer increased grip over 99% of stock footpegs. In addition, they are generally a little shorter (1/2" per peg, approximately), and hence are less likely to scrape during extreme lean angle. The surface is a knurled finish, uniform all around the peg, and, like the slash cut pegs, can be found in a variety of colors.

Slash cut pegs are also machined from billet aluminum, but are designed differently. Slash cut pegs look more like "normal" pegs, having one surface that is obviously designed to contact your boots. In a word, they look more like "normal" pegs. There are differences, though. Slash cut pegs are tapered towards the outer edge of the peg, with the "bottom" of the peg angling up towards the outside of the peg. This is to provide greater lean angle before the pegs start scraping. They are also, like the round pegs, shorter in overall length, to additionally increase ground clearance. Instead of a knurled contact surface like round pegs, slash cut pegs have a machined "grid pattern" cut into the top surface of the peg, leaving an aggressive, sharp edge for maximum peg/boot grip. This offers even more grip than the round cut pegs, but that extra grip also means it is a little more difficult to slide your foot on the peg. Actually, it is next to impossible, requiring you to almost completely lift your foot off the peg to move it.

Changing pegs is easy. Remove the clip holding the pin that holds your pegs in place, then slide the pin out. The spring may want to go flying, so make sure you track it down. Put the spring in the new peg in the same way that it was in the old peg, slide the peg into the footpeg bracket, and slide the pin through the holes to hold it. Re-attach the clip (on some models it may be a cotter pin) to secure it. Repeat on the other side.