Winter storage: A photo essay

Note: It is highly recommended that you read the other winterization article first, as it gives very specific technical information on this topic. This photo essay is a supplement, once you understand what you need to do and why.

Once you decide to winterize your bike, the process involved is not that difficult. First, gather together the needed supplies. You'll need oil, a filter and a drain pan for the oil change. The silicone spray lube is for the cables, and any other external moving parts such as the foot pegs, levers, etc. Also included are chain lube and fuel stabilizer.

After taking the bike for a little ride to warm things up, start with the oil change. Looking at the figure below, first remove the drain plug and drain the oil into a suitable pan. After the oil drains, remove the filter bolt and plate.

The drain plug and filter bolt can be quite stubborn to remove, so use a 6-point socket and long-handled ratchet, shown below. In some more drastic cases a breaker bar may be helpful.

Once the oil is drained and the filter removed, check the filter for debris. If you see metal particles, or other debris, it could mean serious engine damage is occurring. This filter looks clean, so it's time to install the new filter and o-rings.

Before replacing the filter, install new o-rings on the filter bolt and plate.

Once the o-rings are in place, insert the bolt back into the filter plate. The oil filter assembly consists of the bolt/plate, a spring, a washer, the filter element, and the filter retainer.

Place the spring over the bolt, follower by the washer as shown.

Then, place the filter element on the bolt, followed by the retainer as shown.

The filter assembly is now ready to install. Screw the bolt into the crankcase, making sure the o-ring stays in place. Tighten the filter bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs.

Make sure the drain plug washer is installed on the drain plug and tighten the drain plug to 14.5 ft/lbs.

Add oil until the level in the sight glass is up to the upper mark. Start the engine, make sure the oil light goes out, and let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shut the engine off and re-check the oil level, adding oil as necessary to bring the level up to the upper mark.

You may also want to check the old oil for any contamination or debris. Dispose of old oil responsibly. (Recycle)

While out riding, warming up the engine for the oil change, fill the fuel tank up. Fill it to the level as shown. This will minimize any air space in the tank, reducing the possibility of condensation forming. Once the tank is full, add the Sta-bil. The directions call for 1 oz. per 2.5 gallons of fuel, so add 2 oz. to the tank.

If you happen to go for a ride sometime during the winter, top off the gas tank with Sta-bilized gas before you re-store it.

One option (no pictures): Check and (optionally) replace the coolant. If it's not reasonably clean, coolant can contain acids and sludge which will cause rust over time. Coolant should be replaced once a year anyway, so right before winter storage is a great time to do it.

Next, wash the bike thoroughly, removing any dirt, dead buggies, and the like.

After the wash, lube the chain. This will help prevent rust over the winter.

After the wash and chain lube, take the bike out for a 5 to 10 mile run. This will help to dry the bike as well as get the Sta-bil into the carb passages. After getting back from the ride, turn the fuel petcock off and let the bike run until the carb bowls are empty.

Then, put the battery on a trickle charger, such as the Battery Tender Jr, shown below. You can remove the battery from your bike. This isn't necessary, and will make it a little more difficult to get your bike going again if you want to take it out mid-winter. Most riders leave their batteries on the bike out in the garage or outside. Give them the trickle treatment wherever they sit.

Just removing the battery isn't enough. It will discharge enough to damage itself over a period of months, even if it's inside and warm.

Even though the bike ran with the petcock off, there may still be some fuel left in the bowls. Drain the carbs. This picture shows a simple drain trough made out of aluminum foil.

Once the carbs are drained, the bike goes into the storage area. Put it up on the center stand. Once on the center stand, put a piece of plywood under the front tire, just to keep it off the concrete all winter long.

Finally, even though it's inside, it's a good idea to cover the bike. This will help keep it clean and dust free.

This procedure has worked for years, with great results. When spring rolls around, all you have to do is install the battery, turn the fuel on and the bike starts right up. The oil will be fresh, the chain is already lubed, and all you have to do then is check the tire pressure and go riding!

The N250RC E-Z Winterization Process

Those of you without a garage (or a significant other) may want to consider this method. This was posted by one of our members from N. Dakota.