How should I go about preparing my bike for winter storage?

Do I really need to prepare my bike before storing it?

Here's what could happen if you fail to prep your bike properly before storing it away for the winter...

Your well-used oil will degrade inside the crankcase, forming sludge at the bottom and acids that eat away at the metal. And because it has thinned so and lost its coating ability, it will drain from the highest portions of the engine, causing those areas to begin to corrode. Your untreated fuel will degrade, forming a varnish on everything it touches, gumming up the carbs and burning up the valves when (if) you start the bike in the spring. Moisture will condense inside the fuel tank, causing it to rust. You coolant's cold weather protection will have deteriorated and may freeze, causing the engine to crack. Impurities will gum up your cooling system.

OK, those are some of the worst things, but the conditions that lead to them will begin. Since you have to do most of what winter prep entails at some time or another, doing them before winter is good insurance. Also, your bike will be ready to roll just as soon as good weather comes - nothing to do then but ride, ride, ride.

What if I'm only going to leave it stored for a month or less?

If the bike will be down for more than a few weeks, do at least the following:

• Fill the fuel tank, and put some stabilizer in it (see below)
• Drain the carbs
• Clean the chain
• Keep the bike on its centerstand, if it has one
• Keep the battery charged

Do at least this much and you shouldn't have much trouble. If the bike will be down for more than a month, however, a more thorough preparation would be better.

What steps should I follow when winterizing my bike for storage?

Most winterizing instructions include some or all of the following recommendations:

1) Change the engine oil and filter; old oil can contain combustion by-products which can be harmful to engine, clutch, etc.; when left to sit all winter, these can form a kind of concentrated sludge which collects in the bottom of the crank case. The Kawa owners manual recommends running the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil before changing it; if done, be careful to avoid being burned by hot oil when removing the drain plug.

It's not actually necessary to change the oil again when you take it out of storage, but it's a good idea. The cost is minimal in terms of money and time. The oil has been sitting in there for quite some time, and why not start fresh for a new riding season? Just remember, since it's only going to be sitting there all winter, it's not necessary to put the highest-quality oil in before you park it. When you pull it out, you can go back to what you usually use.

2) Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, and then fill the tank with new gas; a partly full tank has air which contains moisture which can cause the inside of the tank to rust, and that's bad. "STA-BIL" is a concentrated fuel stabilizer which some use; it comes in cans as small as 4 oz., which is convenient because it's enough to treat exactly 5 gallons of gas -- slightly more than what the 250's tank holds. Be sure the stabilizer is well mixed with the gas in the tank and that the treated gas flows through the rest of the fuel system. If you add it to a tank which is half full and then fill the tank with gas, by the time you get home the job is done.

Note: The Kawa manual recommends removing the gas tank completely, emptying it, then pouring in a half cup of motor oil and rolling it around to coat the inside of the tank (pour out any excess oil); store the empty tank separate from the bike and away from moisture for the rest of the winter. HOWEVER, should you wish to actually ride your bike on the occasional nice day, you will find this method highly inconvenient. Our experienced members here recommend leaving the tank on the bike, full, and Sta-Bilized, with the float bowls drained.

3) If you have ever added water to the radiator coolant, replace the coolant with a permanent type antifreeze and follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper dilution; coolant that's been watered down could freeze, and that could be very bad. Note that the Kawa manual recommends using a coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for aluminum engines and radiators. Also, use soft or distilled water to dilute the antifreeze according to the manufacturer's instructions; hard water should not be used since it can cause scale which can cause blockages in the radiator and engine cooling passages.

4) Wash the bike; dirt can attract moisture.

5) Clean the chain with kerosene and lube it.

6) Inflate the tires to recommended pressure, and store the bike on its center stand; this will take some of the weight off the tires, and help to prevent flat spots from forming. Note: The Kawa manual recommends deflating the tires by 20 percent, and lifting (blocking) the front wheel off the ground to keep it away from moisture. In reality, it takes more than a non-stop year of sitting for tires to develop flat spots.

7) Turn off the fuel valve and leave it off.

8) Drain the carburetors of fuel. As an alternative, start the engine and let it run until the engine dies (be sure you have plenty of ventilation if you do this); note, however, that this will leave some gas still in the carburetor. Gas left in the carburetor will eventually evaporate and can leave behind a varnish that can plug jets, or cause float bowls to stick, and that's bad; gas that's been treated is less likely to do this. You're really much better off draining your float bowls. It only takes five minutes or so.

9) Remove the spark plugs, and pour a spoon full of engine oil into the cylinders; replace the plugs, turn on the kill switch and run the starter for a couple seconds to distribute the oil. The Kawa manual recommends using a spray fogging oil such as Kawa K-Kare Fogging Oil, part number K61030-002

10) Remove the battery and store it in the house; hook it up to a trickle charger every couple weeks to keep it fully charged. If an undercharged battery is left in the bike there is danger that the electrolyte could freeze in extreme cold and crack the battery case, and that would be very bad.

Some riders like to use a Battery Tender all year. It will prolong the life of your battery, and the battery will be ready to go when you are.

11) If storing the bike outdoors, cover it with a tarp, but don't wrap it so tightly that moisture could build up and not escape.

12) As an alternative to the above, do what some British and Scandinavian riders do: ride all winter; of course that means learning how to ride on snow and ice, but some people do it!

Note: Just starting the bike a couple times a week and letting it idle for a few minutes is not the same thing as riding it (30 minutes minimum). For one thing, the battery will not be charged at normal idle rpms; do this too many times, and you'll have a dead battery. For another thing, unless the clutch is exercised and the gears run through, oil will not be fully recirculated around the parts it has drained away from while just sitting. Your bike would be better off just sitting than going through this routine.